DIY recipes
July 11th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
If you buy a lip gloss that has a glass container and a brush applicator, it is possible to add a couple of drops of a serum that will convert make-up into lip care. Why take the time (and trouble)? This is why: Polybutene, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Polyethylene, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Crambe Seed Oil, Avocado Oil, Phospholipids, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Atelocollagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Soluble Collagen, Synthetic Beeswax, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Palmitic Acid, Aluminum Calcium Sodium Silicate, Silica, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Benzoic Acid, Fragrance, BHT. May Contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide (Cl 77891), Yellow 6 Lake (Cl 15985), Red 28 Lake (Cl 45410), Red 33 Lake…
July 10th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
The objective of a foundation is to cover up skin imperfections with a color that approximates the color of your skin. There may be some light reflecting particles (mica) in there too, but it is mainly a solution of medium viscosity that keeps pigments (iron oxides, etc.) in suspension. Titanium and zinc oxide will provide some sun protection and will reflect light.These are the ingredient of a typical foundation: Water, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Trehalose, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Laureth-7, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dimethicone Silylate,…
July 10th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Using actives available from Skin Actives, it is possible to improve many make-up products. There are, however, some make-up products that can’t be “redeemed”, mascara is one of them. In fact, mascara is terribly effective at destroying eyelashes. Why? Let’s look at an ingredient list: The following is an example of a mascara “disguised” as care product: Water, Synthetic Beeswax, Paraffin, Stearic Acid, Acacia Senegal Gum, Triethanolamine, Butylene Glycol, Carnauba Wax [cera Carnauba], Glyceryl Stearate, Polybutene, Triacontanyl Pvp, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dehyrdroacetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Tourmaline, Rose Damascena Flower Oil, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzoic Acid, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Sodium Benzoate, Iron Oxides, Fragrance (Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Eugenol). Even…
July 5th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
DIY (do it yourself) allows the consumer to be creative and make a product that is designed to his/her liking. But DIY also allows the consumer to evade limits to the concentration of ingredients, including those affecting acidity and toxicity of the final products. Don’t! Unless you are a chemist and MD, you are unlikely to know enough to avoid costly mistakes. This is especially true about “hacking” skincare products using the ingredient lists. You may not notice the word “sodium hydroxide” towards the end of an ingredient list that includes glycolic acid and says on its label “70% glycolic acid peel”. Now, they even omit the strong base on…
July 4th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
The easiest, and perhaps, most rewarding, way to DIY (do it yourself) skincare is to personalize a ready-made product you already like. You don’t need to start from scratch making a serum or cream or lotion. Just take a product you like and make it suit your body even better. Do you want a product that will firm your skin? Maybe you like our Canvas or European cream? Or our sea kelp bioferment? Add to either of these a hint of any of the following sea kelp bioferment (with extra fucoidan), collagen peptides or hyaluronic acid. What other benefits, besides instant skin tightening, will you get? Pullulan (from my glossary)…
June 28th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
I love L’Occitane. But once I read the ingredient lists, it becomes clear to me that I like the idea of L’Occitania: a romantic part of France, Provence, that I haven’t visited (yet), where a strange language was spoken, it makes me dream of exotic fragrances. But it’s just an idea, crystallized in products that are made of the same ingredients, synthetic fragrances, and colors used by everybody else including Korean and French, and American skincare companies. Artists put together the colors and pictures that make me want to buy a $8.50 soap (3.5oz) or spend $34 in 2.5 oz of water, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, etc. If I am this…
April 4th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
First, you don’t need to have “issues” to take special care of your hair (or eyebrows. By the time you detect hair problems, you may have already lost a lot of it and the rest may be thinning. By taking care of your hair you are actually taking care of your scalp, where the hair is formed. You can read more about the subject here and here. I have posted too many articles about hair, but these two should be enough. And when do you have hair problems? Going on a low calory diet, menopause, pregnancy, illness, are some of the many conditions, good and bad, that will affect your…
January 2nd, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
You can’t buy a probiotic for your skin. Why? By definition, probiotics contain live bacteria.For safety reasons, it’s against the law to sell skincare products containing live bacteria. We test every product sold to make sure it is clean and free of bacteria and mold. Our sea kelp bioferment is filtered carefully to terminate fermentation and remove bacteria. We can call it “prebiotic” because it may promote the growth of good bacteria, but not “probiotic”. How come some companies sell skincare probiotics? Easy: they lie. You can make a nice probiotic mask at home, a good excuse to relax. Mix the following: 1 cup yogurt (full fat, plain) 1 tablespoon…
November 10th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
KGF is a signal molecule, it will tell the keratinocytes in your skin to divide and synthesize macromolecules and make your skin stronger. It will encourage your scalp to grow hair, and your eye brows and eyelashes to be stronger, thicker and increase in density. How can you use it as an ingredient to make your skincare better? How? Add it to a cream, a serum, sea kelp bioferment, almost to anything. Exception: KGF is a protein and as most proteins, it does not like extremes of pH (acids, alkali) or alcohols like ethanol and isopropanol. Where? It will help your nails! It will help your scalp and hair! It…
October 29th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
For a rich body lotion, you may have to unlearn some stuff you read on the internet! Really? Yes, for misinformation on skincare (and other stuff), the internet is king. What happens in winter? Why dry skin? It has to do with the low humidity of the air, and heating in the house does not help. There might be a bit of “I don’t see it, I forget about it” about our skin covered in heavy clothes from head to toe (and now, also masks). Any lotion will benefit from the addition of some petrolatum or mineral oil, to “patch-up” your skin barrier. But if you think long term (and…
September 30th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Fixed oils are oils like we use to cook: welcome them to your bath but don’t slip! Be careful going in and out. Essential oils are those that give flowers their fragrance. Be careful when/if you add them to your bath. However beautiful the ambiance, you may end up with itchy skin. Why fixed oils in the bath? If you choose the right ones, you will get multiple benefits Smoother skin Nutrition Calming effect for itchy skin No danger of acne Anti-inflammatory effect Which oil? My favorites are rosehip and pomegranate, because of their fatty acid composition, perfect to “rebuild” the skin barrier. My super favorite is Every Lipid Serum,…
July 18th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
1) Check this first: what do you want from your product? Do you have a particular skin problem? 2) Don’t copy a product just because it is advertised or has “good reviews” or is ridiculously expensive. Does it have a good ingredient list? It may be an icky or ineffective list. Or, worse, bad for you. 3) Make sure the actives you choose to match your objective. The best way? make a shortlist of both actives and objectives, side by side 4) Did you choose your actives? Start with a couple of them, not everything has to go in the same product. 5) Important: To make the fantastic DIY product…
July 11th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Dear Skin Actives clients: I want to discourage you from spending money with us, or, rather, discourage you from wasting money I don’t want you to buy actives “just because”. Buying too many actives and mixing them “willy nilly” leads to disappointment and we at SAS prefer to keep our clients for many years. Before mixing your own products, I suggest you try our pre-mixed products. Look for the product that corresponds most closely to the type of skin or skin problem you may have. Try to decide what your aims are for your skin, then we can work out together how to achieve those aims. Trying first our pre-mixed…
June 22nd, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Sea kelp coral is a fantastic base because it is already full of great stuff. In short, you can’t go wrong! Use it as a mask, by itself, as a one-stop beauty treatment. If you feel like it, add other actives you can find in your kitchen. Examples: a spoonful of plain yogurt (full fat is better) for nutrition and a very mild alpha hydroxy acid exfoliation. Rinse well after your nap, otherwise, the mask will dry as a film that will stretch your skin. Add some fresh pineapple or kiwi puree for exfoliation. Both kiwi and pineapple contain proteases, and your skin will feel fresh and smooth after you…
June 21st, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Looking for a long explanation? Find it here. The short explanation is this: a small chain of amino acids. Yes, you still need to know that amino acids (about 20) make up the proteins that make up our body. Let’s take the myth away from the word “peptide”. No magic in them! The shorter they are, the less they can do (unless we are talking glutathione). Those short peptides advertised by the skincare industry are mostly useless. A few of them can age your skin, but not because of the peptide but because of the copper they carry (run when you see blue!). Where can you find real value for…
April 18th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
One of the most wanted ingredients in skin care is in your fridge. You will find lactic acid at a perfect concentration in plain yogurt (you don’t want the sugar). Lactic acid will give you a nice, light acid peel, just leave it on your skin while you relax. If lactic acid is so good, why doesn’t SAS offer it? We do, in a very special product: alpha/beta exfoliant. Go to our great exfoliant any time, it will do its job in just under 10 minutes. But for a relaxing “spa time”, go for yogurt. Anything you can add to yogurt? Almost any active we sell in Skin Actives, like…
April 11th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Here it is: Essential 2020 Booster 4ml Ingredients Fragrance (Eucalyptus citriodora (Lemon Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil (and) Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil (and) Citrus limon (Lemon) Peel Oil (and) Lavandula hybrida (Lavandin) Flower Oil (and) Eugenia caryophyllata (Clove) Stem Oil (and) Backhousia citriodora (Lemon Myrtle) Leaf Oil (and) Origanum majorana (Marjoram) Leaf Oil (and) Origanum vulgare (Oregano) Leaf Oil (and) Cymbopogon martinii (Lemongrass) Leaf Oil (and) Salvia officinalis (Dalmation Sage) Leaf Oil), Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil, Tocotrienols, Tocopherols, Astaxanthin, Lycopene, Xanthophyll, Thioctic Acid, Beta-Carotene, Minthostachys Verticillata (Peperina) Extract. You can also read about these essential oils here Skin Actives Essential 2020 Booster is a blend of 13 essential oils that…
February 9th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
The collagen in your skin is a treasure you must take good care of. Collagen on your skin? It could help. Collagen in pills? Not at all. Let’s look at collagen and what it does for your skin. From my book: What is collagen? Collagen is a protein, its very complex fibers (see figure) give the skin resistance to strain and traction. Collagen constitutes about 70% of skin mass, but total collagen decreases about 1% per year. It may look like a small decline, but as such a major component of the skin it will affect skin volume and its physical properties. Also, aging changes collagen structure. What was an…
February 5th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
I know, I very recently published a post about how to take care of your feet after Summer. But then I noticed that at a certain age, (my) feet need care all year round (it’s Winter in Arizona). Let me remind you of the basics: The soles of human feet lack sebaceous glands and. The skin in this area is very thick. 1+ 1 = 2. Thicker skin that produces no sebum will tend to crack. Cracked soles can be painful. If you let it go on without correcting the problem, inflammation and more pain will ensue. Infection is more likely because the skin barrier is interrupted. The cracks…
January 18th, 2020 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Dear Reader, This is the introduction to my new book “Four degrees of Do It Yourself skin care”. I am assembling the chapters that will deal with botanical ingredients. I welcome suggestions on the ingredients you wish me to discuss in the book. Hannah We get attracted to plant extracts for many reasons. Besides advertising, there are cultural influences (what did your grandmother use when you were sick?), the attraction of the exotic (if it is Korean, it must be better), and even the common name of the plant (dragon’s blood, anybody?). As a scientist, I have to be more careful with how I choose plant extracts as…