Skin Actives Products
September 19th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Remember: All protective mechanisms in the skin are interconnected and regulated by redox-dependent processes. What is glutathione? Figure: glutathione (a.k.a. γ-L-Glutamyl-L-cysteinylglycine), with that all-important SH group. When oxidized, two glutathione molecules are joined together to make a S-S bridge. L-Glutathione (gamma-L-Glutamyl-L-cysteinyl-glycine) is a tripeptide composed of the amino acids L-glutamine, L-cysteine, and glycine. Glutathione is part of the antioxidant defense system of the cell, together with superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutharedoxin, thioredoxin, alpha-D-tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and others. GSH protects cells by neutralizing (i.e., reducing) Reactive Oxygen Radicals (ROS*). This conversion is illustrated by the reduction of peroxides: 2 GSH + R2O2 → GSSG + 2 ROH (R…
September 14th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Striae distensae or stretch marks are deep scars caused by the skin being stretched beyond its capacity to stretch, followed by ineffective repair of the damage. Latin does not make them any less noticeable. They may start as striae rubra, which are reddish streaks (indicating increased blood flow), and “mature” to as striae alba, which are hypopigmented atrophic bands. Location: abdomen, thighs, breasts, more or less anywhere when the skin was stretched too fast. What you see is skin that has less elasticity, more roughness, and lower dermal density than normal skin. At the molecular level What you see at the molecular level is that in normal skin, dermal collagen…
September 14th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
We need to start with the basics: what is a pore, and why they are so important. There will be some repetition here but I hope our readers will not mind too much. As usual, feel free to skip whatever is too boring, but, hidden within the boring stuff you may find some useful facts you have not heard about in the past. Celebrities’ photos how no pores. This is not because celebrities have no pores but because magazines use Photoshop to a ridiculous extent. Is this a problem? I think it is. False advertising makes women buy products that can’t possibly have the effect advertised, which was obtained with…
September 13th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Did you see the latest “personalized” Clinique? But the new gimmick takes some chutzpah: 15 products (5×3) is not personalized. What do you get for $39? You get 3.9oz (117mL) of a base cream, lotion or gel, plus 0.1 oz (3mL) of a concentrate that contains some ingredients with undefined anti-aging benefits like caffeine, taurine and whey protein. What’s the problem? I like Clinique moisturizers because they work for very dry skin because they contain mineral oil (you can add this to any base cream for 5 cents, though). But, Clinique has very few actives as such. Its products can moisturize and very little more. For example, Clinique’s concentrate for…
September 13th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
What is dull skin? It depends on who you ask. In my opinion, it is a non-existing skin condition, The opposite of dull skin, however, does exist, on babies and in Photoshopped pictures. The famous “glow” of the actresses photographed in the 1920s was obtained by careful lighting, make up and touch-ups. Photo: the great Greta Garbo. Now we have Photoshop and people still dream of the after-Photoshop skin of Julia Roberts. But remember that before Photoshop, her skin is just like yours and mine. . Photo: Julia Roberts: beautiful with or without Photoshop. What a smile! Incidentally, some insects can actually make light. It is called bioluminscence. The insect…
August 6th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Combination skin is probably the norm, in the sense that some areas of the skin produce more sebum that others. The so called “T-zone”, includes the forehead, nose, and chin, and tends to be more oily than the rest of the face. As people age, sebum secretion decreases, even in the T-zone. This is the main reason why the incidence of acne also decreases as we age, as the sebum fatty acids is what keeps acne bacteria going. What to do then, if you have combination skin? Just use the same products all over, and reserve some T-zone serum for the area of the forehead, nose and chin, as needed.…
July 31st, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
One should think that, as more people use sunscreen, skin cancer incidence would decrease. Actually, the incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer is increasing worldwide despite the increased use of sunscreens. In 2014, the USA Surgeon General estimated that 2.2-5.0 million people were treated annually for basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma. Why is there more skin cancer despite the use of sunscreen? I am not epidemiologist (and I have not seen explanations in the literature) but I can think of some reasons. The feeling of invincibility that sunscreen, makes people spend more time in the sun. The average age of the population is increasing. All things being equal, all…
July 20th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
There are several components to this “problem” and you may be able to control on some of them. But first: you have no control on who your ancestors were, so forget about under eye shadows if everybody in your family has them. The shape of the face may cause the light to play a trick. In my case, I am happy to look the way my mum and grandmother looked. Or brown hyperpigmentation of the lower eyelid skin along the shape of the orbital rim. A hint of makeup will fix this “problem”. About the other possible components: Keep away from prostaglandin analogs used by some skin care companies to…
July 18th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Ask your doctor before you get plastic surgery or laser treatment whether this product will help you. But, also, keep it in your fridge, ready for that burn/cut/accident waiting to happen. Accelerate healing with the actives in this cream, which includes the valuable epidermal growth factor. Incidentally, did you know that a hint of rose hip seed oil on the “ouchy”, applied immediately after the bump, will suppress or decrease the intensity of the bruise? Restoration cream The actives: sea kelp bioferment, pomegranate seed oil, rosehip seed oil, hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera leaf extract, glycerin, ceramide-3, coconut fruit juice, Boswellia serrata extract, Centella Asiatica extract, carnosine, fucoidan, Arthrospira…
July 17th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
First of all, WHY do you have to use retinoids? Because retinoids will help you with very common problems that everybody will have at one time or another: acne and skin aging (wrinkles, etc.). What retinoids do After retinoic acid enters the cell, it binds to specific nuclear receptors. These “activated” nuclear receptors, in turn, bind to specific regulatory sequences (called retinoic acid response elements) in the DNA inside the nucleus and directly change gene expression of specific genes. Such changes in gene expression translate into changes in the production of proteins, and are responsible for the biological and therapeutic effects of retinoids. Acne and retinoids In the 1970s, retinoic…
July 17th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Help sooth sore muscles and joints after a workout with this cream, it will absorb quickly and help you recover faster from the strenuous (or not so strenuous) workout (don’t forget your ankles!). The actives: Squalane, Aminobutyric Acid, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Cetyl Myristoleate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Pomegranate Seed Oil, Tocotrienols, Tocopherols, Astaxanthin, Lycopene, Xanthophyll, R-Alpha Lipoic Acid, Beta Carotene. Squalane. Loss of skin lipids result in an increased water loss and increased penetration of harmful compounds. Use of squalane should alleviate skin dryness and sensitivity. Used it to repair damaged skin or to maintain healthy skin. Gamma Aminobutyric Acid (GABA) is a non-essential amino acid necessary for brain metabolism. GABA helps …
July 17th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
T-zone serum is a typical Skin Actives product: complex and different from everything else in the market. The secret is in the ingredients, the way it should be. The actives in T-Zone serum: Seakelp (Lactobacillus/Kelp Ferment Filtrate) Bioferment, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Epigallocatechin Gallate, Niacinamide, Nobiletin, Fucoidan, Porphyridium Polysaccharide, Arthrospira Extract. Sea kelp bioferment (of magic broth fame), discourages bad bacteria, promotes good skin bioflora and helps with healing. Arthrospira (Sprirulina) platensis extract contains phycocyanin and other actives that enhance cell proliferation and promote wound repair. Fucoidan is a sulfated polysaccharide that has antiinflammatory and antioxidant properties. Fucoidan applied to the skin will increase the density of…
June 27th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
It is hard to find a precise definition of sensitive skin, but sensitive skin does exist: more and more people are defining themselves as having sensitive skin, reaching numbers as high as 50%. We may have to re-define normal, because once more than half of us have sensitive skin, this becomes the new normal. Clearly, there must be something that we are doing wrong. In “we” I include people and manufacturers of skin care products. What is “exaggerated” reaction? It can be pain, stinging, dryness, inflammation, redness, reactions to products or environmental conditions that usually are not described as irritating or allergenic. In my opinion, this huge increase of people…
June 25th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Two products, not counting those for eyelashes and eye brows. As always for Skin Actives, look at the ingredient list. First, let me tell you about some of the ways that eyes are special. We have to be careful not to irritate them and be very careful not to increase the chances of getting an eye infection. Styes, infections in the eyelids, are also very uncomfortable. Also, the skin of the eyelids and in the eye area is thin and gets thinner with age, making what happens in the capillaries below very visible. Eyes, like the lungs, are open to the environment and exposed to pollutants and irritants. What do…
June 18th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Once upon a time, people thought that disease was (a well deserved) punishment for sins. That was before germ theory of disease, and before Pasteur and vaccinations, but there is still a superstitious bit in us still believes that, especially when it comes to acne. Acne is a complex condition that includes faulty skin keratinization, increased sebum production, and acne bacteria overgrowth, followed by follicular rupture and inflammation. A complex condition will have a complex relationship with your body and the environment. Avoid people who tie acne (or any other health problem) with “morals”. And avoid people who blame you for being sick or have bad skin! Indeed, avoiding bad…
June 14th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
The Skin Actives way is to look at what is out there and see whether we can improve on it. When it comes to hair loss, it will not surprise you to learn that there are just a few actives out there, and they are effective but…their mechanism of action is a bit convoluted. What are they? Minoxidil (Rogaine) seems to work by y widening blood vessels and opening potassium channels, allowing more oxygen, blood, and nutrients to the scalp. Finasteride (Propecia) is a 5α-reductase inhibitor that prevents the synthesis of dihydrotaestosterone (DHT), finasteride reduces androgen signaling in tissues like the prostate gland and the scalp. Other hormone modulators, like…
May 27th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
We all know (!) that age makes women wiser and men more handsome. I don’t think this has to do with differences in skin anatomy but rather with cultural expectations. The skin of men ages just as much of that of women. If anything, as men tend to wear their hair short, they even lack the protection than longer hair gives to the back of women’ necks have. At the back of the neck, solar elastosis (thickened, dry, wrinkled, reddish skin) is usually limited to men. Do men need skin care at all? YES. We accept men’s aging skin not because it looks or works better than that of a…
May 26th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Our Zit Ender should become a “disruptor” in the skin care world. In business, a disruptor is a “theory, a disruptive innovation is an innovation that creates a new market and value network and eventually disrupts an existing market and value network, displacing established market-leading firms, products, and alliances.” Our Zit Ender should end the reign of benzoyl peroxide, a Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS*) producer, as a go-to ingredient for acne. “Should” does not mean that it will happen but here I present you the reasons why it should happen. Benzoyl peroxide. How does it work? Benzoyl peroxide is a bully of an ingredient that ages your skin as it…
May 24th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
You will find Centella asiatica extract in several Skin Actives products, including the capillary health cream, restoration cream, scar vanishing gel , ultra calming cream, and antiaging cream. We also sell it as a Do It Yourself (DIY) ingredient. As you can see, it is a favorite active that we have been using since we started Skin Actives. Centella asiatica (Gotu kola, a.k.a. Hydrocotyle asiatica). This oriental herb has been used for centuries in both traditional Chinese and Indian medicine. The active chemicals in the extract are terpenoids including asiatic acid, madecassic acid, and asiaticoside. Centella asiatica promotes wound healing, apparently by stimulating the production of type I collagen and…
May 20th, 2019 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Dermaplaning: Microneedling: Microdermabrasion (diamond or whatever) Laser …and whatever else comes in fashion this next year. With high energy comes great risk (with apologies to Spiderman’s uncle). Remember that “FDA approved” means nothing that matters. It is an advertising tool that makes people think that a procedure is safe when in fact it means that sometime, in the past, something similar was approved by the FDA even if it had to be discontinued for whatever reason, including side effects. What that pesky “FDA approval” actually means If your skin has a tendency to react to stress with hyperpigmentation, any and all of the above could result in more of the…