Brands
May 22nd, 2023 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Here we go again: words that sounds rich and magical like “platinum”, “rare”, “elixir”, following a French name. And a bad product inside a pretty bottle. Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, SD Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Squalane, Dimethicone, Glycoproteins, Platinum, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Disodium EDTA, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Yeast Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, RNA, Magnesium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Soy Amino Acids, Polyacrylamide, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Tocopheryl Acetate, PoIyacryIate Crosspolymer-6, Silica, Coco-Glucoside, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Bisabolol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Laureth-7, Tin Oxide, Charcoal Powder, Glycolic Acid,…
February 17th, 2023 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Keep your religion separate from your purchasing, especially of skincare products. There is no Saint Jane in the Christian list of saints, but my Yiddish name is Jane (pronounced Chane and named after my grandmother), so I feel very protective of the name. So when I saw that there is now a skincare brand named Saint Jane, I became interested. Like, taking my grandmother’s name in vain! I found it in Credo, a website that purports to keep your skincare as pure as your heart (Credo in Spanish means religion). Too much religion here in products that should be “ruled” by science. Indeed, in TikTok they use the phrase “sent…
January 15th, 2023 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
“Nona” from Latin, having nine (remember hexagon, heptagon, etc.?). Is a nonapeptide better than an octapeptide? Or than a decapeptide? It doesn’t matter how many amino acids; the sequence is what matters. In this case, the stereospecificity also matters because a couple of amino acids used in this particular peptide are not present in proteins, which are all Levo amino acids. The actual sequence of this nonapeptide, described by Jayawickreme et al. (1994), is Met-Pro-D-Phe-Arg-D-Trp-Phe-Lys-Pro-Val-NH2Why does it matter? Because it has to do with a spatial 3-D structure that will bind to the hormone receptor, blocking access to the normal hormone and preventing it from working. The idea is to…
November 6th, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
You get lots of occlusive agents (in bold) plus the miracle of petrolatum. Ingredients: Algae Extract, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Lime Extract, Sesame Seed Oil, Eucalyptus Leaf Oil, Sesame Seed Powder, Alfalfa Seed Powder, Sunflower Seedcake, Sweet Almond Seed Meal, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Magnesium Sulfate, Paraffin, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Water, Beta-Carotene, Decyl Oleate, Aluminum Distearate, Octyldodecanol, Citric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Magnesium Stearate, Panthenol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Sodium Benzoate, Denatured alcohol, Fragrance. Skin conditioners and moisturizers: Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Sesame Seed Oil, Decyl oleate, Paraffin Minerals: Sodium Gluconate, Copper…
October 10th, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
No, but your pocket will need reviving! Because to get it you will have to pay $250 for 1 oz., 30 grams, of a very plain moisturizing cream. Crema NeraWater, Glycerin, Apricot Kernel Oil, Shea Butter, Alcohol Denatured, Isopropyl Myristate, Rhamnose, Pentylene Glycol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, TamarindSeed Polysaccharide, Sunflower Seed Oil, Resurrection plant (Myrothamnus Flabellifolia) Leaf Extract, Caper Bush (Capparis Spinosa) Fruit Extract, Tin Oxide, Potassium PCA, Glyceryl Stearate, Trehalose, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Adenosine, Magnesium Sulfate, Disodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Lactic Acid, Synthetic Mica (Fluorphlogopite), Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Tocopherol,…
September 21st, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
This is a good example of how novelty is bad for your health. Let’s look at the ingredients. No.3 Hair Repair Perfector Water, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine , Quaternium-91, Sodium Benzoate, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance, Tetrasodium EDTA,Polyquaternium-37, Benzyl Benzoate, Etidronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Phytantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Jojoba Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate Nothing special: water and other solvents, fragrance, and preservatives, except for… Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate. The promise is that “Olaplex will repair broken bonds for stronger hair”. What makes how hair strong? Keratin. What makes keratin so strong? Its…
September 21st, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
This case is about a new skincare brand created in Spain by a plastic surgeon who is telling Spaniards that it’s not necessary to go under the (his) knife to have a young face. All they need is his new line of skincare products. What’s this all about? His theory is that skin ages because of the accumulation of a toxic protein, called “progerin” that causes all the symptoms of aging skin, including thin skin, wrinkles, non-uniform pigmentation, enlarged pores, etc. He then asserts that his new skincare products, containing an alga extract, plus two other plant extracts, can destroy this toxic protein and restore skin to its younger appearance…
May 18th, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Anti-fatigue cosmetics will not make up for lack of sleep. A concealer could help hide the deep shadows under your eyes but otherwise, what on earth are anti-fatigue cosmetics? L’Oreal Paris Men Expert Hydra Energetic Anti-Fatigue 24H Daily Moisturizer Water, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Isohexadecane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide / Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Mentha Piperita Extract / Peppermint Leaf Extract, Peg/Ppg-18/18 Dimethicone, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Caffeine, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Magnesium Pca, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Isopropyl Myristate, Caprylyl Glycol, Menthol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ci 19140 / Yellow 5, Ci 42090 / Blue 1, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum / Fragrance. Water is good (and cheap). Glycerol is great at moisturizing. Denatured alcohol?…
May 1st, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
How do you end up with silly formulations like Perricone’s Hyaluronic 4 + 2 Complex? Ingredients: Water, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin. This ingredient list is silly. Why? There is sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronan), an ingredient we use in Skin Actives. As you can see below, I am against using three of the four actives: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate. The rest is water (solvent) and preservatives. One of these, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, was designed to be used in implants and grafts. It is made by cutting hyaluronan and acetylating it by chemical means, to prevent degradation…
March 24th, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
But first, what’s in it? What can it do for you? The ingredient list wants to convey “natural” and “plum” (just because plum and plump together sound like fun), so you will find many label value ingredients below the 1% concentration, which is the boundary after which you can list the ingredients in any order. This is a good way to hide preservatives, but here there are a couple at the end of the list (Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol). Plums are a type of fruit of the genus Prunus, but this product uses fruits that may look like plums but belong to many different, unrelated species. There are some nice ingredients…
March 24th, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
How to start?Buy some self-stick labels and write with a golden marker the following: Magic! Elixir! Golden! Crystal! You are halfway there. Next, I will tell you how to make your own, improved version. Ignore ingredients labeled by me as “label value”, LV. They are there to “plump” the ingredient list and help hide synthetic ingredients and fragrances. Charlotte’s Magic Cream | Charlotte Tilbury Ingredients: Water (solvent), Homosalate (chemical UV filter)), Glyceryl Stearate SE (lubricant), Ethylhexyl Salicylate (exfoliant), Butylene Glycol (solvent), Glycerin (humectant), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical UV filter), Octocrylene (chemical UV filter), Cetyl Alcohol (emulsifier), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (emollient), Cyclopentasiloxane (silicone, feel), Dimethicone (silicone, feel), Phenoxyethanol (preservative), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea)…
March 14th, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Is the skin of Korean women “better”? If it is, is it because (as “they” say) a Korean beauty routine comprises 20 or so steps? Is it better because they use Korean made skincare? Will Korean skincare make your skin smooth and healthy like that of Korean women? Acne Too many questions. In any case, from what I know, the skin of Korean women is more similar to American skin than it is different. For example, Korean women also get acne, and the acne triggers seem to be the same as for women in the USA: psychological stress, lack of sleep, menstruation, smoking, drinking. And acne is also triggered by…
March 9th, 2022 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
A product from Spain with a Japanese name. What could go wrong? Just as fake as its Japanese sounding name, here are the ingredients Water, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Glycosaminoglycans, Tocopheryl Acetate, Peg-35 Castor Oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycogen, Salicylic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Soluble Proteoglycan, Sorbic Acid, Camellia Sinensis (Tea) Leaf Extract, Matcha Tea. Is there anything interesting in this list? Not the solvents (water, butylene glycol, propylene glycol), or ascorbic acid, which will be an oxidizer by the time it reaches your skin. The preservatives, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid and sodium benzoate, are not very interesting either. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) or mucopolysaccharides, can be more interesting.…
September 23rd, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Ingredients Water･pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate･squalane･butylene glycol･glycerin･behenyl alcohol･dimethicone･dipropylene glycol･diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone･hdi/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer･potassium methoxysalicylate･hydrogenated polyisobutene･stearyl alcohol･hydrogenated palm oil･beheneth-20･phenoxyethanol･myristyl myristate･microcrystalline wax･dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer･palm kernel oil･dimethylacrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate crosspolymer･palm oil･polyvinyl alcohol･fragrance･disodium edta･tocopheryl acetate･retinyl acetate･sodium citrate･sunflower seed oil･alcohol･bht･polyquaternium-51･silica･hydroxyproline･sodium metabisulfite･butylphenyl methylpropional･citric acid･allantoin･isostearic acid･linalool･citronellol･geraniol･lauryl betaine･olive leaf extract･crataegus monogyna flower extract･white dead nettle flower/leaf/stem extract･caffeine･raspberry leaf extract･tea leaf extract･sodium acetylated hyaluronate･sodium hyaluronate･inositol･pine cone extract･Chinese cinnamon bark extract･tocopherol･ginger extract･beta-carotene･soluble collagen･hydrolyzed elastin･gambir extract･Job’s tears seed extract･great burnet root extract･sodium benzoate･Bupleurum falcatum root extract･ Instead of buying this heavily perfumed product, take your $435 and get some vitamin A cream from Skin Actives! With all the leftover money ($415), buy yourself a plane ticket to Paris (low season). Enjoy the Louvre! PS:…
September 17th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Like in this cream, where C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate and Polyester 7 are transformed into MAGIC by paying celebrities to advertise it. Pity there is no money left for ingredients like epidermal growth factor and that some many fragrances (Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol) are likely to irritate your skin. Still, “Charlotte Tilbury” sounds posh, right? Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Vegetable Oil, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Polyester-7, Phenoxyethanol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Shea Butter, Steareth-21, Oat Kernel Extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Allantoin, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Disodium Edta, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Seed…
August 25th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Ingredients: Distilled Water, Glycolic Acid, Witch Hazel, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Propanediol, Vegetable Glycerin, Vitamin B5, Calendula Extract, Green Tea Extract, Allantoin, Menthol, Eucalyptus Oil, Spearmint Oil, Vitamin E, l-Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate. They are selling you an acid but they are giving you salt. What a rubbish product! It will irritate because of the eucalyptus, not “peeling” because the glycolic acid is neutralized, menthol to make you think something is happening. Plus the name suggests that it’s a prescription medication. All of the sins of bad skincare in just one product.
July 27th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Vegetable Collagen, Amla Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-37, Tripeptide-29, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Grape Seed Extract, Kiwi Fruit Water, Coffee Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Jojoba Seed Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Butylene Glycol. No, vegan collagen doesn’t exist. Don’t waste your money on products that sell you what doesn’t exist. Feeling indignant is the right reaction to this kind of stuff. Somebody called this kind of stuff “the bastardization of science”, to what I answer: aren’t scientists cheap? If you can’t be a serious, honest scientist, please find yourself a different profession. Maybe sell used cars? Or bridges?…
July 21st, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Vegan collagen is NOT collagen Ingredients: Collagen (Vegan)*, Water, Propanediol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Dextrin Palmitate, Collagen Amino Acids (Vegan), Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides Oil, Helichrysum Stoechas Flower Extract, Cylindrotheca Fusiformis Extract, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Adenosine, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Amodimethicone, Homosalate, Polysorbate 20, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Octocrylene, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Limonene, Beta-Carotene (CI 40800). Vegan collagen is a new innovative technology created by binding together corn, soy and wheat protein fibers resulting in vegan amino acids that structurally mimic and provide a function similar…
June 28th, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
I love L’Occitane. But once I read the ingredient lists, it becomes clear to me that I like the idea of L’Occitania: a romantic part of France, Provence, that I haven’t visited (yet), where a strange language was spoken, it makes me dream of exotic fragrances. But it’s just an idea, crystallized in products that are made of the same ingredients, synthetic fragrances, and colors used by everybody else including Korean and French, and American skincare companies. Artists put together the colors and pictures that make me want to buy a $8.50 soap (3.5oz) or spend $34 in 2.5 oz of water, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, etc. If I am this…
June 1st, 2021 by Dr. Hannah Sivak
Water, Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Arbutin, Glycerin, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Cistus Ladaniferus Extract, Coix Lacryma Jobi Mayuen Seed Extract (Job’s Tears), Licorice extract, Sasa Veitchii Extract, Butyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Diglycerin, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Stearate, Soybean Sterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Isohexadecane, PEG 2 Stearate, PEG 400, PEG 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Acrylate Acryoldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Squalane, Sucrose Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Fragrance, Caramel, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492). Don’t tell me that this is a “traditional” or “family” recipe. Still, it could be good. But no, alcohol is the second ingredient, indicating a high concentration and that this product…