Look at what your dermatologist is recommending. Now look at the price. And the ingredient list.
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Isopropyl Palmitate, Polyacrylate-13, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-38, Phosphatidylserine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Swertia Chirata Extract, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Ornithine, Ceramide NP, Ergothioneine, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Phytosterols, Phospholipids, Glycolipids, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Olive Fruit Oil, Shea Butter, Betaine, Squalane, Lecithin, Caprylyl Methicone, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
There is nothing of great value here to suggest a “quasi-medical” value. What I can rescue is the intent: the phrase “supports healthy adipose tissue”, like in giving the subcutaneous fat its due. Unfortunately, in the advertising the phrase refers to acetyl hexapeptide-38, L-ornithine, phospholipids and glycolipids and there is no reason to expect any of these will promote fat accumulation.
Don’t be impressed by long list of peptides: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-38. Peptides are cheap ingredients these days, mainly because they are used at very low concentrations but also because there are plenty of commercial setups doing synthesis of peptides using machines and methodology developed originally for basic research. There is practically no basic research on these peptides, they are developed willy-nilly and thrown into the skincare market hoping for the best. At the very low concentrations they are used they are unlikely to produce side effects or any effects really. The exception is peptides used as carrier for metals: copper is an oxidant, for example, so use copper peptides with your eyes open, i.e. knowing that they can accelerate skin aging.
Here is another product from the same company.
Water, Glycerin, Polyacrylate-13, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Octapeptide-45, Hexapeptide-11, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp (Silver Ear Mushroom) Extract, Lactoferrin, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate (Syn-Hycan), Xylitol, Propanediol, Anhydroxylitol, Phospholipids, Xylitylglucoside, Phosphatidylserine, Glucose, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone (antioxidant), Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyisobutene, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Betaine, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sunflower Seed Oil, Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Magnesium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide.
This is a good humectant cream, containing natural and synthetic chemicals capable of retaining water: hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, glycerin, Tremella fuciformis, etc. It also contains some barrier chemicals, that will prevent water loss to the environment: Polyacrylate-13, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyisobutene, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate.
For preservatives and formulation helpers, it contains caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid (chelating agent), Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide.
Would this cream, priced at $210 per ounce, do any better than a humectant cream you can buy for $5? No. However, a dermatologist could be duped by the profusion of peptides of confusing nomenclature, especially if the dermatologist doesn’t have the time to find out that these peptides are not supported by independent research.
This analysis confirms my impression of dermatologists, especially the good ones. They care about important stuff like cancer and some nasty skin afflictions, but wrinkles are normal and they don’t have much interest in them (unless the dermatologist is making money out of a personal skincare line, for example).
I think you should visit your dermatologist if you worry about a weird spot here or there; they may be early signs of cancer and should be looked at. But don’t expect much sympathy (or attention) for those wrinkles that you see when you smile. For those, look at Skin Actives.
References
Böhles H, Bieber MA, Heird WC. Reversal of experimental essential fatty acid deficiency by cutaneous administration of safflower oil. Am J Clin Nutr. 1976 Apr;29(4):398-401. doi: 10.1093/ajcn/29.4.398. PMID: 1266788.
Garre A, Martinez-Masana G, Piquero-Casals J, Granger C. Redefining face contour with a novel anti-aging cosmetic product: an open-label, prospective clinical study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017 Nov 13;10:473-482. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S148597. PMID: 29180884; PMCID: PMC5691901. (This study was funded by ISDIN S.A. and performed by Dermscan Laboratoire, France. )
Khnykin D, Miner JH, Jahnsen F. Role of fatty acid transporters in epidermis: Implications for health and disease. Dermatoendocrinol. 2011 Apr;3(2):53-61. doi: 10.4161/derm.3.2.14816. Epub 2011 Apr 1. PMID: 21695012; PMCID: PMC3117002.