What so special about azeloyl glycine?

Its chemistry: azeloyl glycine is an example of good organic chemistry modifying a natural ingredient to advantage, i.e. for a good reason and with a good result.

Azelaic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid found in wheat, rye, and barley. Like most (but not all) chemicals, azelaic acid can also be made in a lab by a good organic chemist.

Azelaic acid is used to treat mild to moderate acne; it works by killing acne bacteria that multiply within blocked pores. It also decreases inflammation in rosacea. The mechanism of action is thought to be through the inhibition of a protease that converts cathelicidin into the antimicrobial skin peptide LL-37. In this case, too much of a good thing, an antimicrobial peptide, can be bad.

Azelaic acid is also a tyrosinase inhibitor. Azelaic acid has been used to treat skin pigmentation, including melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in those with darker skin types.

Azelaic acid is what’s called a secondary metabolite, which plants do not use for basic living, such as chlorophyll and cellulose. They cost energy and carbon and are useful to plants, even if we sometimes don’t know how; they are not there for human benefit! In plants, azelaic acid is a “distress flare” involved in defense responses after infection. It serves as a signal that induces salicylic acid accumulation, an important component of a plant’s defensive response.

Azelaic acid and more soluble derivatives like azeloyl glycine (a.k.a. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, see below) can treat some skin problems, usually as part of a combo with other chemicals.

This derivative of azelaic acid with the amino acid glycine is more soluble in water, which is a great advantage over azelaic acid, for the formulator and for the skin because it has a better bioavailability. Azeloyl glycine normalizes sebum production and has activity as an antifungal, antiacne, and skin lightener.

You will find azeloyl glycine in T-zone serum,  Zit-ender and the Skin brightening cream

References

Berardesca, E., Iorizzo, M., Abril, E., Guglielmini, G., Caserini, M., Palmieri, R., & Piérard, G. E. (2012). Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosacea. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 11: 37–41. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00598.x

Layton AM, Dias da Rocha MA. Real-World Case Studies Showing the Effective Use of Azelaic Acid in the Treatment, and During the Maintenance Phase, of Adult Female Acne Patients. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2023 Feb 24;16:515-527. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S396023. PMID: 36873659; PMCID: PMC9975535.

Rigano, L.; Cucchiara, M (2003) Azeloyl – glycine: a new active in skin disequilibrium. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 21: 177-188.