Skin Actives Scientific Collagen serum, our #1 bestseller, started as a list of actives that DIYers (do it yourself aficionados) could put together to make a great serum. The objective was stimulate synthesis of macromolecules (proteins, carbohydrates, DNA, the whole shebang) in our skin and to protect skin structure and function from aging and deterioration in general (newsletter February 2007). Soon after, we started selling a serum that had all of those components, mixed in our lab and dispensed in small glass bottles with droppers.
From our June 2007 (12 years ago!) Newsletter
“Let’s Make Collagen” Serum
We will be adding a new prototype serum.
Our clients asked us to get everything that helps with synthesis and maintenance of collagen in a single serum. As you all know, I aim to please, so here it is. You will find nowhere else a serum like this one!
Distilled water, Seakelp (Lactobacillus/Kelp Ferment Filtrate) Bioferment, Sodium PCA, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), pomegranate extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hyaluronic acid, L-Carnosine, Boswellia Serrata (Indian frankincense) Extract, Niacinamide, N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, Horse chestnut extract, Hyaluronic acid, Betulinic acid, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Epigallocatechin Gallate, sh-Oligopeptide-1 (Epidermal Growth Factor), Germaben II.
Our 2019 Collagen serum (named abbreviated but still the same function)
Water, Seakelp (Lactobacillus/Kelp Ferment Filtrate) Bioferment, Glycerin, Sodium PCA, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid), Boswellia Serrata Extract, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, L-Carnosine, N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, Niacinamide, Betulinic Acid, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Epigallocatechin Gallate, Glutathione, sh-Polypeptide-2 (Thioredoxin), sh-Oligopeptide-1 (Epidermal Growth Factor), Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid.
What has changed? The serum “feels” much better and does a better job of delivering its actives to the skin. The botanical extracts (green tea, Boswellia, Centella) are now standardized to higher concentrations of the active chemicals. Glycerin helps with water retention by the skin.
Thioredoxin and glutathione help the other antioxidants in the serum to maintain the skin optimal redox state.
We succumbed to internet-generated social pressure and replaced the old faithful, Germaben II preservative, which contains parabens, to the more acceptable but still effective combination of Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid.
But we still have the “good ol’ actives in our collagen serum. In short (you can find out more in our glossary)
Betulinic acid stimulates collagen synthesis and inhibits the enzyme elastase to prevent the loss of elastic fibers responsible for skin suppleness.
Boswellia serrata extract promotes collagen synthesis and is also an elastase (protease) and hyaluronidase inhibitor, a life preserver for the dermal matrix.
L-carnosine: prevents cross-linking of collagen, one of the causes of wrinkles and loss of elasticity brought about by aging and exposure to UV (sunlight).
Centella asiatica extract stimulates scar maturation by increasing synthesis of type I collagen.
Green tea EGCG: an antioxidant, it has also been shown to prevent collagen glycation in the vascular system, (not in skin, but you never know….).
N-acetyl glucosamine, a component of hyaluronic acid, increases collagen synthesis
Hyaluronic acid: make your skin collagen happy by providing a nice matrix for it. A well hydrated skin works better.
Hydrolyzed collagen (collagen peptides) will supply your skin with amino acids that will be used in synthesis of your own collagen.
Sea kelp bioferment contains fucoidans, polysaccharides that have been shown to increase collagen synthesis plus all the nutrients contributed by the alga and fermentation.