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Advertising or fraud? When words don’t mean what you think they do.

Vegan collagen is NOT collagen

Ingredients: Collagen (Vegan)*, Water, Propanediol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Dextrin Palmitate, Collagen Amino Acids (Vegan), Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides Oil, Helichrysum Stoechas Flower Extract, Cylindrotheca Fusiformis Extract, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Adenosine, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Amodimethicone, Homosalate, Polysorbate 20, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Octocrylene, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Limonene, Beta-Carotene (CI 40800).

Vegan collagen is a new innovative technology created by binding together corn, soy and wheat protein fibers resulting in vegan amino acids that structurally mimic and provide a function similar to animal-derived collagen used in cosmetic products

Run when you see “new innovative”!

Defensins don’t defend you against wrinkles

They have antibacterial activity!

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment Filtrate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Phospholipids, Alpha-Defensin 5, Beta-Defensin 3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Sea Whip Extract, Ergothioneine, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Offinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Albumin, L-Alanyl-L-Glutamine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Phytic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride.

With great power comes great responsibility. SSome defensins have been linked to skin problems like psoriasis and eczema.

Yerba santa and other magic herbs

Energize hair follicles through a caffeine-like effect
• Protect hair follicles from oxidative stress
• Delay aging of hair follicles
• Increase both hair growth and hair density

Some of the chemicals in yerba santa: sterubin, homoeriodictyol , eriodictyol

Native Californians used its leaves in the form of tea, with which they treated respiratory sicknesses, colds, and stomachaches (as well as simply made a cup of tea). A hot, potent extract can be applied hot to a poison oak rash to quicken healing. A poultice of leaves may be applied to flesh wounds, sore muscles, above bone fractures, and where rheumatism strikes. It was also used as a smoke plant, which was said to help those with asthma.

Copper peptide

We, living creatures, will lose the battle against Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS*). Could we please ask the skincare companies not to put themselves on the side of the enemy? After all, we are their customers (not ROS*!).

What is a copper peptide? Whatever you want it to be. The story goes that the great Wizard of Oz discovered a magic copper peptide that was responsible for youth. Old people have little, young people had a lot.

Here starts the con: association is not causation. A young person may have more A B and C than an old p[erson but this does not mean that A, B or C are the reason why the skin (or liver) of a young person behaves differently. Still, this is the “argument” many brands use to sell you a product. Each brand tells you that it is their A (or B or C) that makes the difference.

And, no, it is not true. In the case of copper it is even worse, because from the many ingredients that you can use on your skin, copper is one that is certain to hurt your skin when use beyond a very low concentration. Copper is a micronutrient, i.e. we need very little of it, and there is plenty of it already in the environment. In fact, you may be one of the unlucky people that already have too much of it as it is.

And guess what? The same company that makes a big thing out of a minor paper published 40+ years ago, doesn’t even bother to spend the money on the “magic” peptide they advertise. Instead, they add an inorganic copper salt to a soy soup and sell it to you. Here it is:

Purified water, copper-peptides (hydrolyzed soy protein* and copper chloride), glycerin, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polysorbate 20, allantoin, glycine, aloe barbadensis leaf juice (aloe vera) gel, fragrance (herbal mask), tocophersolan (vitamin E), ubiquinone (CoQ-10) and xanthophyll (lutein).

This product is bad for your skin and your body. If you have the bad idea of using ascorbic acid at the same time, it will promote the formation of ROS.