Why (and how) to formulate with ROS* terminator proteins.
Oxidation and aging
There is nothing wrong with oxidation per se. We live from mitochondrial respiration, i.e., oxidation optimized to extract usable energy from food. When we respire (oxidize) food, we get energy in the form of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and reducing power in the form of reduced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH), which we use to build almost every molecule we need. Respiration is how we humans maintain life.
Disorganized oxidation by ROS* is a whole different thing. ROS steal electrons and break chemical bonds, changing macromolecules so they can’t do their jobs anymore. Oxidative stress, an accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), disrupts cellular homeostasis through chemical modification. It damages proteins, lipids, and DNA, often resulting in pathological changes.
How the living cell copes with ROS*
UV light and reactive oxygen species (ROS*) are two main culprits of skin aging. Indeed, much of the damage caused by UV light happens through ROS*, which are chemically reactive molecules containing oxygen, so ROS* is crucial to skin aging and health. The way living organisms adapted to life in an oxygen rich atmosphere and sunlight includes many enzymes, proteins and antioxidants.
Enzymatic scavengers of reactive oxygen species (ROS*) with their cellular localization: cytosolic, mitochondrial, and extracellular. Nitric oxide (NO.) has functions that overlap with ROS*, is synthesized from L-arginine and oxygen by enzymes called NO synthases, and is one of the reactive nitrogen species (RNS*). The three proteins in the our ROS* terminator are: SOD, GRX and TRX. Note the role of glutathione (GSH) in this process. Illustration by Dr. Alberto Iglesias.
Although this figure is very complicated, it does not include all the elements of our cell’s antioxidant systems. The take-home message: yes, it is very involved and requires the integrity of cell membranes and organelles to function. It also depends on metals, coenzymes, and enzymes and interacts with the environment.
What are ROS* Terminator proteins?
At HannahSivak.com, we supply to cosmetic manufacturers three proteins that are critical to disarming ROS*: thioredoxin (TRX, sH-polypeptide 2), sh-polypeptide-77 (Glutaredoxin (GRX)), and Superoxide Dismutase (scientific name is also its INCI name). My colleague Alberto Iglesias, a master craftsman of protein biochemistry) suggested the name Terminator, a humble homage to the “I’ll be back” Arnold Schwarzenegger of Terminator fame (not the others).
Do you need any other ingredients in a ROS* terminator cosmetic formulation?
In addition to the usual respect due to proteins, the formulator should remember the role that glutathione, a natural tripeptide, has an important role: it’s a donor of reducing power. Glutathione is the most abundant non-protein thiol (SH-containing compound) in animal cells. I suggest adding it in Terminator-containing formulations ranging from 0.5 to 10 mmol/L, around 150mg per liter of lotion or serum (you can go higher). The glutathione should be added in its reduced form. Think about a soccer match: the proteins are the players, but even Messi can’t do his magic without a soccer ball!
Figure. Glutathione.
What to expect from topically applied ROS* terminator
Simple: help fight attacks by ROS* present in the air, which are more abundant in cities with heavy traffic.
For more about what ROS* can do to our bodies, please see:
ROS* and what an antioxidant serum can do to protect and heal the skin
DISCLAIMER: These claims have not been evaluated by the FDA and are not intended to diagnose, cure, treat or prevent any disease.
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