First, as always, INCI, the list of ingredients that tells you what’s in there.
Progeline is a trade name for an ingredient that contains glycerin, water, dextran (a polysaccharide used in artificial tears) plus an undefined peptide, trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2.
And then, as usual, “claims”. The people who sell it say that it “modulates progerin, a marker of senescence”.
First, I will tell you what I know about progerin (you can find more in Wikipedia). And then, you can tell me whether would you trust a mystery synthetic peptide to “fix” it for you?
Before progerin, there is Lamin-A, a nuclear fibrillar protein. Lamin A is a major structural component of the lamina, a scaffold of proteins found inside the nuclear membrane of the cell. It is, obviously, very important, it helps keep the shape of the nucleus and who knows what else.
Progerin is a faulty version of Lamin-A; this faulty protein does not integrate well within the lamina, so the nucleus is badly affected, the visual result is a lobular nucleus instead of the usual self.
Where does this progerin happen? In people who have a faulty gene for Lamin-A. As a result, they have an illness called progeria. It seems that the presence of progerin (or the absence of enough Lamin_A) starts a whole lot of disasters in the cell, some of them related to DNA repair.
Do you have to worry about progerin? NO, unless you have Hutchinson–Gilford progeria syndrome, a very rare syndrome that has devastating consequences for those who carry that gene.
Progerin may also be related to problems in people with very advanced age.
Does progerin has anything to do with normal skin aging? Very unlikely. If you had lobulated nuclei in your cells you would have other problems to worry about.
Is there any evidence that trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2 has any effect preventing the production of progelin? If there was, the person who created it would have a Nobel Prize and photos with the people who he cured of Hutchinson–Gilford progeria syndrome. Also, there would be some trace in the scientific literature of this mystery peptide (there isn’t).
So how come there is somebody selling this peptide? Progeline is a good sounding name. That is all you need to sell an ingredient for skin care. Sad, isn’t it?
You are warned. It is unlikely that this ingredient will harm you. It is used in minuscule concentrations, most of Progeline is water, glycerol and dextran. The peptide, if present there at all, will be eliminated somehow. In the end, you will have lost some money. But, if you decide to believe whatever you read in the internet, then this is absolutely your fault!
And if you believe that such a peptide can repair your cell nuclei will also reduce sagging and wrinkles and improve your jaw line, then I have a bridge I can sell you, how about the Ponte Vecchio? Much prettier than the Brooklyn Bridge.