What is an anti-aging cosmetic ingredient?
May I offer a definition?
“A substance that, applied topically, will help reverse the manifestations of skin aging, including the capacity to prevent the entry of noxious chemicals and microbes, loss of elasticity, impaired pigmentation, wrinkles, increased itching or pain, etc.”
This definition contradicts the FDA’s “rule” that cosmetics shouldn’t alter skin physiology but can change skin appearance. But of course, anti-aging cosmetics change skin physiology (and appearance), even if we insist on pretending otherwise to keep the FDA happy.
In my book and in my pamphlet “Chemicals that Nature Makes,” I mention some anti-aging ingredients. For some of them, there is strong experimental evidence from scientific journal articles. Still, we can infer that they will improve skin biochemistry and physiology based on what we know about the chemicals and their role in cell biology.
Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is the “universal energy storage unit” and can be used in anti-aging treatments because it is involved in energy production and use.
Apocynin can decrease oxidative stress and inflammation, promote stem cell survival, and prevent premature aging and skin thinning by promoting collagen 17 synthesis. Apocynin can be added to creams or lotions for an added anti-aging boost
Apple pectin can help thicken skin thinned by aging.
Bilberry Fruit Extract has anti-aging properties, probably because it contains antioxidants.
Carnosine, also known as Beta Alistine™, accelerates healing, improves healing, prevents the cross-linking of collagen and other proteins, functions as an antioxidant, and may improve the immune response.
Diosgenin is a phytoestrogen that can be used during perimenopause and menopause to prevent accelerated skin aging and hair loss
Wild yam extract can also decrease melanin synthesis and contains diosgenin, which has anti-aging effects.
Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) can accelerate healing and increase the rate of skin renewal for aging skin.
Fisetin is a senolytic therapy, which can selectively kill senescent cells that do not die, despite being old and malfunctioning. It is hoped that these senolytic therapies can delay aging, reduce the severity of age-related diseases, improve resiliency, and improve survival.
Fucoidans. When applied to the skin, these polysaccharides increase the density of collagen bundles, decrease the activity of proteases (enzymes that break down dermal proteins), increase the scavenging of free radicals, and increase cell proliferation.
Fucoxanthin may be able to prevent skin photoaging and wrinkle formation.
Ginseng powder extract has anti-inflammatory and anti-photoaging properties.
Jiaogulan extract can absorb UV radiation and protect vascular endothelial cells.
Luteolin is an antioxidant that suppresses the activation of metalloproteinases by UV light.
Mangiferin, a xanthone found in mango, is a potent antioxidant that may decrease skin thickening, wrinkle formation, and the increased activity of matrix metalloproteinase caused by UV radiation.
Methionine Sulfoxide Reductase (MSR) is a protein that protects cells from oxidative stress and may delay aging and neurodegenerative diseases.
Plant extracts enriched in mitochondria help provide components that will help produce energy in the form of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which cells can use for a variety of functions.
Myricetin may decrease the skin thickening, wrinkle formation, and increased matrix metalloproteinase activity caused by UV radiation. It can also quench noxious hydrogen peroxide and prevent lipid peroxidation.
Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+) levels decline as a part of the aging process, probably affecting nuclear and mitochondrial function.
Phytoestrogens: botanical extracts that bind to estrogen receptors that are left vacant by menopause. They include soybean genistein, flax lignans, wild yam diosgenin, Pueraria (a.k.a. White Kwao Krua or Kwao Keur).
Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) seem to be important for skin health, and the omega-3 PUFAs EPA and DHA found in fish oils reduce inflammation.
Pterostilbene is a sirtuin activator that may have anti-inflammatory, anti-skin-cancer, anti-melanoma, antioxidant, photodamage-prevention, and anti-glycation properties. Pterostilbene also has antibacterial and fungicidal activity
Resveratrol blocks UVB-mediated activation of the factor NFkappa-B, which may help to prevent skin aging and photodamage from UV radiation.
Retinoids stimulate the division of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, as well as the synthesis of collagen and the extracellular matrix by fibroblasts. They also inhibit the synthesis of matrix proteases.
ROS* Terminator protein complex helps to recover the antioxidant activity of the cellular glutathione system.
Ursolic acid has anti-aging and anti-wrinkle properties.
Hannah
DISCLAIMER: These claims have not been evaluated by the FDA and are not intended to diagnose, cure, treat or prevent any disease.