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How good is Marula oil?

An oil is as good as its composition, i.e. the fatty acids that make up its triglycerides and sometimes because of the “impurities” that are extracted when the oil is pressed from the seeds or fruits.

The label value is the benefit (to the seller) that having a certain name in the ingredient list adds to the product, usually making the consumer think that he is getting “value for money”.  It makes us feel rich if we see the words diamond and, yes, Marula!

Marula oil is extracted from the nuts of the Marula trees (Sclerocarya birrea) fruit and is used in cosmetics. It is also used as cooking oil, as a meat preservative, and to treat leather.  Like other good edible oils, marula oil is used to clean and massage the skin. 

Marula oil contains oleic acid (70–78%), polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), linoleic acid (4.0–7.0%), alpha-linolenic acid (0.1–0.7%) and a low percentage of saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid, stearic acid, and arachidonic acid.  The unrefined oil contains tocopherols, sterols, flavonoids, procyanidin, gallotannin, and catechins but these components may not be present in the oil that makes it to your product.
Is marula oil better than other plant oils? Many oils are beneficial to the skin, and omega 3 and 6 essential fatty acids have been shown to enhance wound closure and improve healing.  Ther oil conditions the skin, making the patient more comfortable, but the fatty acids are also a source of nutrition for the skin.

From the point of view of the formulator and the consumer, other properties also matter. Oil may be too “smelly” and require refining, the removal of some “impurities” that may be beneficial for the skin but not that good for the feel and aroma of the finished product, the presence of polyunsaturated fatty acids may shorten shelf life.  Is the oil well absorbed by the skin?

In short: from the point of view of fatty acid composition, marula oil looks a bit like olive oil. But marula sounds more exotic! My favorite is still rosehip seed oil, better for the skin, with a fatty acid composition that is unbeatable.

References

Alves, A. Q., da Silva, V. A., Góes, A. J. S., Silva, M. S., de Oliveira, G. G., Bastos, I. V. G. A., … Alves, A. J. (2019). The fatty acid composition of vegetable oils and their potential use in wound care. Advances Skin Wound Care, 32: 1–8. doi:10.1097/01.asw.0000557832.862

Engelter, C., & Wehmeyer, A. S. (1970). Fatty acid composition of oils of some edible seeds of wild plants. J. Agricultural Food Chemistry, 18: 25–26. doi:10.1021/jf60167a025