How (and why) to formulate with Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF, INCI sH oligopeptide-1)

No, EGF is not an oligopeptide. Why? By definition (this is scientific definition). An oligopeptide has between two and twenty amino acid residues. EGF, with its 53 amino acids, is a protein. But I understand that once the INCI has a name for an ingredient, it’s hard to change it, even if it’s scientifically wrong.

Does it matter? Most proteins are more fragile than oligopeptides: more amino acids make for a more complex structure. But it just happens that EGF is a relatively “robust” protein, from the point of view of fragility (lack of) and stability (good). You can be less careful when dealing with EGF (or our sH- superoxide dismutase, another robust protein). But I suggest you always be nice to all proteins unless you make meringue for a Pavlova cake (whipping egg whites denatures the proteins in it).

Why use EGF topically?

Healing.

Lentigines

Melasma

References

Lyons, Alexis B. et al. “A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled, Split-Face Study of the Efficacy of Topical Epidermal Growth Factor for the Treatment of Melasma.” Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD 17 9 (2018): 970-973 .

Miller-Kobisher, B., Suárez-Vega, D.V., & Velazco de Maldonado, G.J. (2021). Epidermal Growth Factor in Aesthetics and Regenerative Medicine: Systematic Review. Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 14, 137 – 146.

Kim, H.O., Kim, H.R., Kim, J.C., Kang, S.Y., Jung, M.J., Chang, S.E., Park, C.W., & Chung, B.Y. (2021). A Randomized Controlled Trial on the Effectiveness of Epidermal Growth Factor-Containing Ointment on the Treatment of Solar Lentigines as Adjuvant Therapy. Medicina, 57.

Park, G., Rhee, D., Moon, H., Won, C.H., Lee, M.W., Choi, J., Moon, K.C., & Chang, S.E. (2015). Effect of an Epidermal Growth Factor-Containing Cream on Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation After Q-Switched 532-nm Neodymium-Doped Yttrium Aluminum Garnet Laser Treatment. Dermatologic Surgery, 41, 131–135.