Alpha lipoic acid: yes or no?
Yes. But don’t expect a miracle. And be careful how much you add.
Natural chemical, energy production.
Synonyms: R-α-Lipoic acid (alpha-lipoic acid); Thioctic acid; 6,8-Dithiooctanoic acid
Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) is good and essential for cell function, but not essential in the nutritional sense because our bodies make it. Older skin may be hungry for this very important antioxidant and cofactor. Lipoic acid, a naturally occurring dithiol complex, is the prosthetic (i.e. non-proteic) group of several enzymes, including the transacetylase part of of the enzyme complex that catalyzes the decarboxylation of pyruvate so that the remaining 2-carbon group can enter the Krebs cycle. ALA also acts as a powerful micronutrient with diverse pharmacological and antioxidant properties. ALA is quickly trapped (“sequestered”) by cellular membranes, so it does not get far. If you want to protect yourself more effectively, try our lipophilic antioxidant mix containing lipoic acid, astaxanthin, vitamin E, tocotrienol, and tetrahydrocurcuminoids.
Don’t be mistaken: alpha-lipoic acid is in so many skincare products NOT because of its important functions in the cell. It is so ubiquitous because it caught the interest of a manufacturer/brand designer who saw the advertising potential of science in the marketing of skincare. He started looking for biochemicals that could be advertised as anti-aging. This is one of the first chemicals introduced as “cosmeceuticals” into the industry before the name cosmeceutical was invented.
What is a cosmeceutical? Following the FDA’s definition, a cosmetic is not supposed to have a physiological effect on the skin. Yet, we spend millions of dollars every day buying products because we believe that they have a physiological impact on our skin: erasing wrinkles, increasing elasticity, lightening the skin, etc. But if a product has drug properties, it must be approved as a drug. What is going on here? The industry decided to navigate this very narrow gap by inventing a new term, cosmeceutical. While the FD&C Act does not officially recognize the name “cosmeceutical,” the cosmetic industry uses this word to refer to cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits, which by definition would make them drugs and subject to approval by the FDA.
But then, will alpha-lipoic acid help your skin? If yes, how much?
It is an antioxidant, ROS* scavenger, and has anti-inflammatory properties, but nothing exciting. Alpha-lipoic acid may help with diabetic neuropathy.
Lester Packer was a co-author of books that promoted alpha-lipoic acid as key to antioxidant interconnection, and it became the focus of antioxidation in skincare. This was in the 1990s are we have more sophisticated tools in hand, as shown by the many antioxidant ingredients we use in Skin Actives.
What is the actual evidence? There is an article that describes the effect of 5% alpha-lipoic acid. It shows a slight protective effect t against photoaging, but the control is a cream without alpha-lipoic acid; in my opinion, there are plenty of ingredients that could do much better, starting with sunscreen!
My advice? Say yes to alpha-lipoic acid but remember that in the last 25 years science and understanding of antioxidants have advanced so much, so don’t get stuck in just one ingredient and take advantage of the synergy shown by antioxidants when working together. Learn about our ROS* BioNet, antioxidant booster and more.
And last, but not least (I like this expression), forget about using 5% of anything, ingredients work better when they are used in conjunction with others, and you never know what 5% of X will do to your skin because your skin has never seen 5% of anything before!
Further reading:
From my blog on antioxidants and ROS
What makes a chemical a vitamin C
Antioxidants and hyperpigmentation
References
Lin, J.-Y., Lin, F.-H., Burch, J. A., Angelica Selim, M., Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., Grichnik, J. M., & Pinnell, S. R. (2004). α-Lipoic Acid Is Ineffective as a Topical Antioxidant for Photoprotection of Skin11This work was done in Durham, North Carolina, USA. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 123(5), 996–998.
Beitner, H. (2003). Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5%alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin. British Journal of Dermatology, 149(4), 841–849.
Roy S, Packer L. Redox regulation of cell functions by alpha-lipoate: biochemical and molecular aspects. Biofactors. 1998;8(1-2):17-21.
In: Triple correction eye cream,
Skin Brightening cream and many more.