A cute trade name does not a chemical structure change.

A former favorite baby skin care line of mine, Mustela, seems to have forgotten all about biochemistry. They have chosen to add an ingredient, which they call “biomimetic” to their products.

Biomimetics is the “imitation of the models, systems, and elements of nature for the purpose of solving complex human problems”, like Velcro, for example.

The new ingredient used by Mustela has a function in avocado fruit: it regulates maturation. Avocado, of course, is a plant. Babies are not plants. They have no fruits to mature. This does not mean that the chemical in avocado, cutely called “Avocado Perseose” does not have an effect on humans. It does.

My guess is that “Perseose” is a name inspired by “vernix caseosa” the waxy white substance found coating the skin of newborn human babies. In neonates, and is made of lanugo (hair), sebum and dead cells. Not pretty but very effective at protecting the super soft skin of the fetus from the surrounding environment.

The composition of the avocado “Perseose” is nothing like the vernix. It is a mix of mannoheptulose and perseitol (7-carbon sugar derivatives). What is the effect of perseitol on humans? Interesting, to say the least. It inhibits glycolysis, the way sugars enter respiration, and it also inhibits the secretion of insuline. Apparently it has been studied as a weight regulator for dogs.

In short, yet another natural chemical wit a fancy trade name that is not suitable for the use its sellers, a company in France, wants to give to it. I understand their interest in using whatever byproduct is left of avocado oil extraction. But not on my babies!

Sorry, Mustela, you used to be a great brand before you decided to give in to “natural” pressure. I loved your old shampoo, with a lovely synthetic fragrance. But life goes on, maybe without Mustela in my bathroom.

Maybe Skin Actives should start a baby line of products?